July 4th in Belgrade

Happy Fourth of July!  I did miss celebrating Independence Day Northridge family-style, but this way was just as enjoyable.

In the morning, our group walked just behind our hotel to the dominating Saint Sava Temple.  It is Serbia’s largest Orthodox temple, and second largest in the world, with construction beginning in 1935 and still being completed (due to stoppages from conflicts).  Saint Sava is considered the founder of Serbian Orthodoxy in the 13^th century, and is obviously a national hero (one of the rivers that runs through Belgrade is named after him).  Four hundred years after he died, the Turks burned his bones in response to a Serbian nationalist uprising.  Thus, with his ashes scattered to the winds, Serbian believers see Sava as being everywhere.  The temple is already very beautiful, and will be an even more incredible landmark when it is finished.

After enjoying the temple, our group walked across downtown Belgrade, admiring the mix of architecture along the way.  Pre-WWII structures with Eastern and Slavic influences stand side-by-side with bland, gray, blockish Socialist buildings, with a few modern edifices sprinkled in.

Our walk culminated in the famous Belgrade Fortress, the Kalemegdan.  Positioned at the meeting of the Danube and Sava Rivers, the fortress has been a strategic position for centuries.  It has been held by all nations who have controlled the region, including the Celts, Romans, Byzantines, Turks, and Austrians.  Its incredible architecture shows its history, and it provides impressive views of the rivers as well as New Belgrade.

Following the fortress, we had a chance to have a special meeting with the Archbishop of Serbia.  The Slovene who is in charge of a small population of Catholics in predominantly Orthodox Serbia, the Archbishop was extremely kind, generous with his time, and helpful towards our dialogue’s purpose.  He explained the history of Catholicism in the Balkans, pointing out that the first Christians outside the Levant were here, as Paul came through on his way to Rome.  The Archbishop explained that any meeting of east and west, such as the cultures of the Balkans, shouldn’t be divided, but rather treated as gold.  He also explained how essential the youth of today are in making these dreams of peaceful coexistence a reality.

After the meeting with the Archbishop, our group was given the night off.  Many of us chose to head down to the Serbian Parliament, where a homecoming celebration was being prepared for the returning Wimbledon champion, native Serb Novak Djokovic.  A frenzied crowd waited outside for hours, waving flags and singing traditional as well as popular Serb songs.  When Djokovic emerged brandishing the cup, cheers and fireworks in the Serb national colors poured from the masses.  Merriment verily ensued, with cars honking and reveling going deep into the night.  Even though we weren’t in the US for Independence Day, we all still got a chance to see some awesome red, white, and blue fireworks and have a big party!